Gargano
-
Europe’s finest natural rock garden
For the lover of
wildflowers, orchids in particular, few European localities can
even begin to rival the Gargano peninsula in Puglia, the wonderful
limestone lump that forms the spur to Italy’s boot. Once an island,
it is now joined by the alluvial Plain of Foggia to the Italian
mainland.
Paul HD initially explored
the region in the spring of 1979 in order to gather material for
his first book Wild Orchids of Britain &
Europe (1983).
Since then, he has been back two dozen times at least, written
numerous articles and walked practically every path and by-way
possible. In fact, for us a year without a visit to Gargano is
incomplete – we need that fix of wild orchids in vast numbers and
variety. The whereabouts of many of the best plant locations often
elude the casual visitor and they can only be found by wandering
away from the beaten track and, each year before clients arrive, we
go and check which sites are doing well. This land is an
inspiration to anyone who has tried to build a rockery, for this
is, arguably, Europe’s finest natural rock garden...
Gargano was once separated from the Italian mainland by a channel
that later became silted up to form the plain of Foggia. Isolation
from neighbouring land masses enabled

plants here to evolve quite
separately from mainland relatives with four orchid taxa considered
endemic to the peninsula. Gargano is now elevated to legendary
status among lovers of wild orchids. There is limited development
near the coast, where pines descend from white cliffs to the sea
and the waters are a deep azure blue. But, inland, Gargano is
sparsely populated with much of it an upland landscape, threaded
with miles of ancient stone walls and peppered with conical
dwellings - ‘trulli’ - whose design dates back to the stone age.
There is a wonderful beech forest at high altitude, the Foresta
Umbra, that is maintained under the control
of the
Corpo
Forestale and
grazed by cows that crop at just the right height to leave it
carpeted in spring with blue anemones, white narcissus and yellow
orchids... Bird life is extraordinarily rich and we have seen five
species of woodpecker, goshawk, eagle owls, hoopoe and golden
oriole...
There is a change of nearly
1000m in altitude between the base and summit of Gargano so that
orchids and other plants on the heights can flower some three to
four weeks after the same species have bloomed closer to sea level.
We choose the time of our visits carefully to get the best of the
plants near sea level and up at over 800m - it is a balancing act.
From a distance the hillsides of Gargano might appear barren but
close up they reveal an abundance of orchids and a myriad dwarf
wild irises: (Iris lutescens)
in lemon yellow and
intermediate colour forms and the blue iris (Iris
biflorus).
Perhaps the true prize among Gargano endemics is the elusive
Siponto Ophrys (Ophrys sipontensis)
named after Siponto, the
ancient Roman city on the Gulf near Manfredonia where it flowers in
March- whilst, on high, it is at its best in late April: in mid to
late May some very rare and unusual orchids flower - Lacaita’s
Ophrys (Ophrys
lacaitae) and
Conrad’s Ophrys (Ophrys
conradiae) - we
can offer ‘made to measure’ trips at any
time.
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